Boat Work

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This article printed in
The Retriever Journal

Sep/Oct.
 2001
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Boat Work

written by Butch Goodwin
      
of                     

Northern Flight Retrievers  
The Retriever Journal Nov./Dec.  20001 

 

My column in the previous issue of The Retriever Journal dealt with river dogs. It occurred to me while writing it that one of the major responsibilities required of many well-trained river dogs is proficiency at riding and working from a boat quietly and with confidence. And, since famil­iarity with boats is such an extremely important part of the training program for almost all waterfowl hunting dogs and is so rarely considered important enough to write about, the editors suggested that I discuss it. (Plus, I think they wanted to find out how to make their own dogs behave better. At least that would be my guess based on the photo below.)
   Over the years, I have recommended that if there is one single word in a retriever’s training regimen that simply can’t be overemphasized it is obedience. All training fundamentals begin at the trainer’s side when the pup is a young­ster, and obedience is the springboard for everything that follows. Yeah, it’s fun to teach an eager prospect to run lines, stop, and handle at a distance; it is exciting to see that, “Wow, look what I found” reaction of a wide-eyed pup the first time he discovers a planted bird on his own. But without the control that close-in obedience provides, everything that subsequently takes place away from the trainer’s side, out in the field, will likely eventually begin to unravel.
   When someone calls or e-mails with a training problem, in addition to advising how to work through the difficulty, I always also suggest that they begin and end every training session by put­ting the pupil through a short obedience drill. Kind of like the “warm-up” and “cool-down” phases of an exercise program, these short obedience drills give the trainer and his dog an opportunity to work on something they can both agree on and end each session on a positive note.
   Many of the dogs that I get in to my kennel for training already have tremendous advanced skills that the owners simply want polished-up; but, unfortunately, if there is any single detail that has generally been over­looked and is causing that training to disintegrate, it is the dog’s lack of unquestioned obedience - and this will have repercussions on all of his future training.

As with any training, it's best to start acquainting your future partner with a boat at an early age.
Progressive training by starting the dog in and out of a boat on land produces a dog that has little difficulty dealing with boat work in deeper water.
With the boat still on land but now close enough that his first leap will put him immediately into standing water, the dog can learn to a deal with retrieving and the delivering the training dummies from a boat before he has to deal with deep water.
The environment is new, so initial boat training must involve much encouragement. Make sure the boat is steady, and teach him to sit still on the "place" carpet and jump out only when sent to retrieve.

 

So, what does this have to do with boat training, you ask? Every­thing! Perhaps more than at almost any other time, obedience is of paramount importance for a retriever when in or around a boat. A retriever that will get into a boat when told to and sit quietly in his spot until called upon to go to work is a tremendous asset. A retriever that is continually jumping in and out of the boat and running from one end to the other or trying to sit in your lap when he is soaked can make any outing miserable - or dangerous.
   As with any training, it is best to start acquainting your future hunting partner with a boat at an early age. The basic obedience skills that he’s taught as part of his normal house­breaking and training procedures will also be his foundation for starting boat training. Some of the commands that should be taught until carried out with­out question are “kennel” or “load-up; “sit" and/or “stay”; “place, “quiet,” “down,” “shake,” and a release com­mand such as “okay” or “all right.” And any other commands that suit your particular hunting situation should also he addressed long before opening day.
   Your dog should also be taught to be super-steady when in the boat and go only when sent to retrieve. You might also consider, as he progresses with his blind retrieve and marking training, practice in lining up and sending him out of various points in the boat. By the way, this will also give you some practice on casting while in a rocking boat, having to maneuver your way over and around seats, bags of decoys, and other equipment without tripping and tossing yourself overboard.
   Before I go any further, it should go without saying that two things that are taboo are don’t ever put a dog in a crate in a boat or tie him up by a rope in a boat. If you have a dog that is so out of control that you have to consider either of these two options, either train him or leave him home. Other hunters in your party would probably appreciate your leaving him, anyhow. If a dog is in a crate and the boat happens to capsize or just tip hard and toss the crate over­board, the dog and crate are going to go straight to the bottom with little chance of escape. Likewise, until you have seen a dog go over the gunwales with a rope attached and get the rope sucked into the prop, pulling the dog into the blades you have no idea how quickly these things can happen.
When teaching your dog to stay in a certain spot in the boat, it probably shouldn't be in your lap.

T
o get started, put a fairly stable boat in the yard or next to your training pond on the bank in a solid spot where it won’t rock. I steady mine with short pieces of 2 x 4 and rocks shoved under it. Tell your dog to “kennel,” and have him jump into the boat. Now, my experience has been that most first-timers go right in one side of the boat and out the other, but that's to be expected. Putting a short lead on him and getting into the boat with him will likely reassure him that it’s a safe place to be.
   After letting him get familiar with the boat, select the spot where you want him to work from, and teach him to sit in that spot and not move around. I teach all of my dogs the command “place,” and their place is almost always near the bow of the boat. (This balances out and allows for a motor to be hung on the back, for someone to sit in the back to run it, and another hunter and a couple of bags of decoys and gear to he placed in the middle of the boat.) I teach the dog “place” as part of normal training by taking a plastic crate apart and using the lower half with a piece of old outdoor carpet in it as their “place.” They are taught that this is their spot and they are to go there and stay there until told to do something else. Eventually, the crate bottom can be eliminated and just the carpet can be used when I give them the command. This works wonders when teaching a dog to be steady while sitting at a remote or hidden location beside a duck blind, or even inside the house when visitors don’t want to get molested by a big retriever.
   Of course, during their daily training is the natural time to begin acquainting your retriever with a release command, such as “okay” or “all right.” This will also be his cue that it is time to leave the boat - and not until he hears the command. Trying to unload gear out of a boat at the dock with a dog jumping in and out of the boat is a royal pain. Teach him to stay there until released - you choose the release command that you prefer, but don’t overlook teaching it.
When he feels comfortable jumping in and sitting in his place and coming out when called, it is time to begin teaching him to work from the boat. Consider keeping the boat on dry land for a while and doing much of his training in and out of the boat. By repetition, if you teach him to sit steady in the boat, jump out only when sent for a mark or blind, and then return to his sitting position in the boat to deliver the bumper, it will become second nature for him to do this once the boat is in the water. 
   Once he is proficient at doing land marks and land blinds out of the boat (and once you are comfortable handling him from the boat on land without tripping over the seats and gear), keep the boat on solid ground but move it close to the water - so close perhaps, that his first leap out of the boat will put him immediately into wading water. Again, practice all of the marking and blind running skills that he will need, but always insist that he return to his spot after delivering the birds or bumpers.
   Two of the problems that must be addressed when working out of a boat in deep water are: how a dog gets hack into the boat, and where and when he is to shake the water out of his coat. Neither of these should present great obstacles if they are addressed ahead of time.
   There are several brands of dog platforms on the market today that clamp onto the side of a boat and allow a dog, with a little hit of practice, to climb onto the platform and then into the boat. This is far and away the best way to get a big retriever back into a boat in deep water. If you have to resort to pulling him aboard by having him put his feet over the gunwales and pushing down on his head and neck to help him in, you also better consider teaching the dog to give up or deliver the birds alongside the boat while he is still swimming. Having to pull him aboard like this while still holding a bird in his mouth will likely force him to put a death grip on birds that likely didn’t really need any tenderizing.
   Shaking the water off has always been a problem unless the dog has been taught from the beginning when doing water retrieves to “shake” on command. If he has been taught this early on, it should he no problem to keep him from shaking himself until he is in his “place.” If you haven’t taught your dog to shake on command, consider it. Trust me, it can make for a colder and more miserable day when a soaking wet dog soaks you and your shotgun a time or two.
   We’ve saved the introduction to the motor for last, after the dog is comfortable working in and out of the boat. If the dog is well-accustomed with the boat and the oars and associated noises and movements, the noise and vibration of a motor shouldn’t really present a tremendous difficulty for him to cope with. And if the dog’s place is on the opposite end of the boat from the motor, it should present little if any problem. If it does, often having someone else run the motor while you sit beside him and reassure him will usually calm the apprehension. Personally, I have found that a motor has little effect on a dog used to riding in a truck or car.
   So the bottom line in acclimating your retriever to working from a boat is no different from any other training: Introduce everything new incrementally, and then repetition, repetition, repetition. Heck, I would rather have one of my dogs in the boat with me than most of the guys I hunt with; he’s a lot better conversationalist and a lot less subtle about stealing my lunch.

 The End

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