Tough Cookies Northern Flight Retrievers!
Published in
The Retriever Journal
August/September 2005
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Tough Cookies
written
by Butch Goodwin
of
Northern
Flight Retrievers
The Retriever Journal August/September 2005
There
are two primary reasons that cause a dog to be tough or impossible to train to
his full potential. Those factors are genetics and incorrect early training (or
no early training at all).
The genes your dog was born with
are genes he is stuck with - there is nothing you can do to change them. If you
expected a hunting dog and bought a pup out of a line that hasn’t seen a bird
in generations, shame on you - you didn’t do your homework. Just because a dog’s
last name is “retriever” - Labrador retriever, golden retriever, Chesapeake
Bay retriever - doesn’t mean he is from a great retriever
hunting dog line. And, in today’s world, there is a better than average chance
that he might just be from a long line of rug decorations.
Early training and socialization
will make more of a difference in a dog’s later life than any other
non-genetic factors. Early training is critical. And, regardless of how
well-bred a pup is, inadequate early training can override all of his
outstanding genetic traits.
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| Develop a pup's early retrieving desire
in a hallway so that he has no other choice but to return to the trainer. |
Professional trainers face both of
these hurdles almost on a daily basis. If only the dog’s owner had taken the
time to learn what he is looking at when he examines a pedigree - and if he had
attempted find out whether the breeder has a long-range plan for his breedings
(and what that plan is), or if he just puts two dogs together because they are
nice around the house - he would have an idea as to whether the dog is going to
be genetically capable of doing the work in the field. Similarly, if the dog’s
owner had exposed him as a youngster to a large variety of environmental
situations and done some correct early training, the pro wouldn’t be forced to
take the time that he could be spending actually training the dog to coax him
through "puppy problems” and avoidance issues.
The excuse that pros hear all the
time is: “Well, I was going to send him off to you for training and I didn’t
want to do anything wrong, so rather than making a mistake and screwing him up,
I didn’t do much of anything at all.” By that point, the damage is done - it
may just be too late.
Yep, a dog is stuck with the
genetics that he was born with, but incorrect early training and a lack of
exposure to environmental situations can cause an otherwise genetically normal
dog to never reach his full potential - and be one tough dog to train.
Pre-obedience
learning with fun, very short duration retrieving games is of utmost importance.
No more than three or four retrieves with a ball or a (dry) paint roller at six
to 10 weeks of age is a good way to get started. I find that starting retrieving
in a carpeted hallway with all of the doors closed so the youngster has no
choice but to return to you is best. You never want to develop a pup’s
retrieving desire in an area with hardwood, tile, or any other slippery surface
floors because there is a chance of slipping and sliding and injuring
still-forming joints.
When the pup returns to you in his
attempt to escape the hall with his prize,” it is important, at this stage, to
scoop him up and praise him for being so wonderful, all the while letting him
hang onto the ball. Eventually he will release it; then you can get his
attention and throw it again.
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| When you move a pup's retrieving
outside, try kneeling and controlling him by holding him between your
knees; make him sit while someone else throws short marks. Then, say his
name and release him to make the retrieve. |
As the pup gets older and begins to
understand that by coming back to you, the ball will be thrown again, it is time
to move the retrieving outside and to switch to a puppy-sized bumper. This is
also the time to begin teaching the basic commands such as “sit” and “here”
or “come.” One of the best ways to control a youngster is to have someone
else throw the bumpers while you kneel on the ground and hold him between your
legs and close to your body. As this progresses, you can begin to tell him to
“sit” and make him remain in a sitting position between your legs until you
release and send him to make the retrieve.
Most new trainers see the
tremendous potential and desire that their new puppy shows and want to begin
serious, formal, control-type training when the pup is much too young. It is
important to allow a puppy to be a puppy for a while and not begin any form of
serious training until about three months of age or so. It is important to spend
this time allowing them to enjoy their “adventures” and discover that
everything in the world - sights, sounds, smells, and strangers - are not going
to hurt them.
To accomplish this, the owner must
try to take his pup everyplace possible and introduce him to riding and sleeping
in a crate, dealing with new people and places, loud noises, swimming, and
chasing birds. I find that dragging a short checkcord while going for walks in
the field teaches a pup that he will survive even if he gets tangled up and
fights his captivity, and that eventually the “hero” will come along and
free him.
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Early Training Principles
- Let a puppy be a puppy for awhile; there is plenty
of time for him to be an adult.
- Don't try to force a timeline on a pup.
- Respect the balance between too much
"exposure" and not enough (e.g. a couple of minutes of
roughhousing is okay, but unrestricted play is not good.)
- Don't give commands (or continually repeat
commands) that the dog doesn't know. And don't give commands that
you can't enforce.
- Teach commands first, then reinforce the behavior,
and then correct - and only if the correction can be well-timed.
- Concentrate on one thing at a time before moving on
to another command or task. Remember the analogy of building a house
- the foundation must be solid, or everything above it will fall
apart.
- A calm demeanor around a puppy will help him to
learn to be calm as well.
- Limit praise so that praise given always has value.
- Three or four retrieves are plenty for a youngster.
Always put him away wanting more retrieves rather than
overdoing it. (This is often extremely difficult for a
new puppy owner to do.)
- Help young dogs to be successful in whatever they
do. Set them up for success. Do not set them up to fail just to get
a correction. When they succeed, the reward means more.
- Introducing birds at an early age builds
confidence.
- Early training and socialization will make more of
a difference in a dog's later life than any other non-genetic
factors. Inadequate early training can override all of a dog's
outstanding genetic traits.
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And really, that early, fun
training, and socialization and introduction to new and changing environments is
about it - without it, a dog will lack confidence and show skittish behavior, or
try to avoid every new situation to which he is exposed in the future, making
him a tough hombre to train.
Once this “escape” behavior is
learned as a way to avoid doing the work, it can be very difficult to correct. A
dog that is scared of everything new can be tough to train because the dog is
only happiest when he can convince the trainer that he shouldn’t have to do
the work - and he will use every escape behavior at his disposal to avoid the
doing it. So, building a young dog’s confidence - and, of course, exposing him
to birds so that he learns to trust his nose - should be a priority.
When
the time does come to begin formal obedience training, it is important to try to
remember that you are no longer simply “play-training” a puppy. Allowing a
young puppy to get away with non-compliance, coaxing him to perform, and
excessive praise are part of his growing up. But once formal training begins
with an older dog, he must be taught the meaning of the commands before he is
rewarded for his good performance or corrected for non-compliance. And when
corrections are made, they must be consistent and well-timed. A dog that is
corrected and doesn’t understand why he is being corrected can cause him to
worry about making mistakes.
Often, this is seen in the dog that
is full of avoidance behaviors - he would rather do nothing at all than chance
making a mistake - so he tries to avoid doing the work entirely. Likewise,
over-praising a dog’s every action can lead to a conflict as to who is on top
of the pecking order. The dog that thinks he is the leader of the pack often “walks”
all over his owner. Then, if he is sent off to a trainer, he still thinks he is
the at the top of the food chain; when he is made to comply, he sulks or goes
into hysterics, like a spoiled kid throwing a tantrum, displaying all manner of
escape behavior in an effort to avoid giving-in. Once again, another tough nut
to crack.
Remember, a sound training program
is similar to building a house. The foundation must be solid or everything above
it will fall apart. It is necessary to be absolutely sure that the commands
taught and their responses are rock-solid before stepping up to another command.
And dogs learn these conditioned responses to commands by repetition combined
with well-timed correction and praise. If owners start their pups based on this
set of training principles, they will prevent a whole host of potential problems
- and won’t develop a dog too tough to train.
The End
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