The Training Table

June/July 2008

The Training Table

written by Butch Goodwin
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Northern Flight Retrievers   

I can't comprehend how a trainer could possibly get along without a training table of some sort; it is one of the most useful pieces of equipment in a trainer's arsenal. I use my table on a daily basis for all sorts of things - many of which aren't even directly related to any form of training. And because I introduce my pups to the table when they're about eight weeks old and train with it daily, they quickly learn to feel at ease with it. From then on they will jump on the table without hesitation for various kinds of checkups such as cleaning and patching cuts, removing burrs, trimming or repairing broken toenails, and all sorts of other health and training matters where I must have them under total control. 

I introduce them to the table at a young age because I don't want my dogs to associate it only with forcefetch or feel that getting on it is a punishment. I want it to be an enjoyable place where they also get scratched and brushed and where I can tell them what fine dogs they are. And, of course, it's good for me to have the dog at my level so I don't have to constantly bend over to examine or brush him or put 
bumpers in his mouth when teaching him to "hold." 

There are other advantages to a training table that most people don't immediately appreciate. For one, the table really develops a dog's self-confidence, self-reliance, and confidence in you (which ultimately shows itself in the form of compliance with your commands). I find that once dogs are familiar with the training table and being attached to the overhead cable, they become quite proud of themselves as they strut up and down. As they gain confidence on the table, they become bolder and learn to  succeed. It also has a way of transforming an un-manageable outlaw, making him more willing to yield to your training - the table has a way of "leveling the playing field." And all of this happens with nothing more than getting him accustomed to being on the table. 

My introduction to the training table came long ago from a copy of The Training and Care of the Versatile Hunting Dog by Sigbot Winterhelt and Dr. Edward D. Bailey, written in 1973 for the members of NAVHDA (The North American Versatile Hunting Dog Association) and largely directed at what are known as the "Continental" pointing breeds. But I took my table design from author and Field & Stream columnist Bill Tarrant (whose table, I believe, was the brainchild of Brittany training legend Delmar Smith). Basically, the design consists of a stout, semi-permanent table about waist high, from 8' to 16' long (longer if you have the room) with a taut overhead cable running the length of the table so that the dog can easily move up and down but not jump off. Many trainers make their own modifications, but the basic design remains the same. 

I used eyebolts through the vertical 2x3s attached to turnbuckles, which stretch the cable tight like a guitar string.

My training table is 16' long and 3' wide. The floor (table top) that the dog stands on is 39" above the ground, and the overhead cable is 36" above the top of the table. I started with two standard 4'x8' sheets of 3/4" -exterior ply board (not wafer board) and cut a foot off each, giving me two pieces 8' long and 3' wide. Placed end to end, this forms the 16' top of my table. I really like the 3'-wide table, but to save on lumber I see no problem making the tabletop narrower (maybe 24" wide) so that the dog has less room to move away from you. (You'll need only one sheet of 3/4" ply board.) Underneath I built two separate frames of 2x4s turned vertically under each half of the table. Basically, I built two 8' long tables and then fastened them end to end with carriage bolts. 

I put 2x4 supports under the floor of the table at about 2' intervals to solidify it and reduce bouncing when a dog walks on it. I found it most convenient to use what are commonly called "drywall screws" to fasten all of the wood for the entire bench. Each section of table is built on 2x4 legs long enough to put the floor of the table at about waist height. Since I am 6'4", this puts the floor of my table at about 40" above the ground, which is probably too high for most people - you need to build your own table at a level that fits your height. 

Once the legs were in place, I put all manner of bracing attached to them so that the table is as stout as possible. After the two separate 8'x3' tables were built, I fastened them end to end and then bolted the entire table to the vertical supports under my carport. Any level spot will work - many trainers bolt their table to an inside wall of their garage and then use it to do double duty as a work bench or reloading bench. 

Once my basic table was finished and secured solidly, it was time to add the overhead cable. Over the years, I have seen all methods of attaching overhead cables; some were attached to vertical pipes, some directly to the walls of the building, and they all seemed to work. For mine, I put a vertical 2x4 running up from the center of each end, which reached high enough to attach to the overhead beams of the roof of the carport. The cable running between these two uprights should run directly down the center line from one end of the table to the other. I designed my table so that the overhead cable is 36" above where the dog stands. 

Remember, when deciding on the height of your cable to consider not only the height of the dogs you will be working with but also how easily you can reach the cable for attaching or disconnecting snaps. I figured that given the behemoth Chesapeakes that occasionally come to my kennel for training, I could always add snaps to get down to the level of a smaller dog, but if the dog is taller than the cable, I might be in trouble - so my cable is up fairly high. I also have two, 16' 2x4s running from one of the end uprights to the other end upright above the cable (like the bottom half of an I-beam) for support and to keep the vertical end pieces from bowing inward when the cable is tightened. 

I used eyebolts through the vertical 2x4s attached to turnbuckles, which stretch the cable tight like a guitar string. On my cable, I use a case-hardened lock to slide up and down and swivel snaps (like the ones on the end of a dog leash), which I can add or remove as needed to match the height of the dog I am working with. (See photographs to get a better idea of the construction.) 

Other trainers I know attach the dog's collar to a short piece of chain that's linked to a pulley that rolls up and down along the cable. This works fine for a short while, but if it's used a lot the taut cable will eventually eat a grove in the pulley or anything that  slides up and down along it. After trying every method of attachment I could think of, the only thing I have found that will survive continually sliding up and down along the cable is a case-hardened lock. I soap the cable regularly with bar soap to ensure that the lock slides smoothly. 

If your table is going to be outside, be sure to give it a coat of linseed oil regularly to counter the effects of the weather. I would avoid something really slippery like polyurethane, and I wouldn't make the top of the table too rough either. You want the dog to be able to move comfortably, but you also want to retain a level of slickness so that you're always in control. 

You can add modifications as need be. I have built a couple of simple steps for the dogs to climb onto my table, and I've seen other tables with ramps going up one end and down the other. The variations at this point are endless and limited only by your space, needs, and imagination. If you figure your training table will double as a workbench, reloading bench, or whatever, then modify the design to fit your needs, but try to keep the basic principle of a good, solid table with a taut overhead cable down the center line. 

A table of this design is necessary for force-fetch training that uses the nerve-hitch or toe-hitch method. The dog is secured to the overhead cable by the snaps attached to the sliding lock and can move up and down the length of the table but not jump off. Then, with a cord attached above the dog's carpal joint and running down around his two center toes, pressure can be applied and released at will. The dog is essentially held from above by the attachment to the overhead cable and connected to the trainer by the cord around his foot. In this manner, the trainer is always holding the cord and thus never loses contact with the pressure point like he does when using the ear-pinch method. If the dog refuses the command to fetch, the pressure can be instantaneously reapplied rather than having to fumble to locate and re-establish the ear pinch. 

Before I close, let me tell you the only disadvantage I have found of working with a dog on a table: When he is on a table of the correct height. the dog is just about eyeball to eyeball with you. If you are dealing with a fear or pressure biter, you'd better be darn quick and get your face out of the way! But don't let this scare you - considering all of the dogs I have worked with and force-fetched on a table over the years, I have never hat one come at my face - but please be aware that the potential exists! •